Fall is a beautiful time of the year to be in search of the next bird photo or photo series. Always pursue those photos and appreciate them with a stimulated sense of discovery! To help improve your bird photography success rate, this week I’m providing you with my go-to list of photo tips for birders. This is a list I wish someone had offered me when I bought my first used camera and 200mm zoom lens, so I like to update it and share it periodically to help inspire you to make the most of your outdoor experiences with birds when you have your camera in hand.

It’s difficult to find a bird that shows as much character as this Red-headed Woodpecker did, but often a unique photo is the result of spending extra time with a bird and waiting for that golden moment when it provides an opportunity to show you a different action or behavior (600mm zoom lens, f-8 aperture, 1/1250 shutter speed, 400 ISO).

The fall season will surely provide a variety of bird photography opportunities for us all, and here I offer my fairly organized list of tips and techniques that I consider to be my best description of the basics of bird photography. Created using my years of experience mixed with tips shared with me over the years by professionals and hobbyist friends, along with other techniques gleaned by reading extensively. Anyone will be able to glean some valuable pointers, and I hope this information will give you a great introduction or a helpful review of all the things you can do to improve your chances of getting more quality bird photos – now and for years to come.

Actually, this is the kind of article that offers such a varied collection of helpful tips that I encourage you to print it out and post a copy on your bulletin board, and fold another copy to make it easier to keep it to your camera backpack, glove compartment, or your back pocket. Don’t hesitate to share my list with other bird photographers too. This list will truly help make you a better bird photographer, and I hope it adds a new level of enthusiasm for you with renewed and improved production from your camera and lens.

My 50 Best Bird Photo Tips

– I keep my camera within reach at all times. I never want to say: “I wish I had my camera!”

– Quality photos require good sunlight. For optimum lighting, I make every effort to position myself between the sun and the bird, with my shadow pointing toward my subject.

– The best time to photograph during any given sunny day is when the sun is at a 30- to 60-degree angle above the horizon – starting about an hour after sunrise, and again during late afternoon until an hour before sunset. This practice will provide more direct lighting for bird photography while eliminating most shadows if you are positioned between the sun and birds.

Among the rarest birds in North America, seeing Whooping Cranes during a brief migration stopover is super-rare. But to be positioned to photograph this family group was almost unheard of – until last fall when this family group flew near me as they winged from a feeding location to a shallow water roosting site. With the young Whooper leading the way the family lined up perfectly as they flew toward the afternoon sunlight and into my camera view (600mm zoom lens, f-8 aperture, 1/1000 shutter speed, 800 ISO).

– Avoid photographing during midday when the sun is overhead or mostly overhead as that’s when the effect of shadowing on the bird and in the scene is greatest. However, during most winter months, the sun tends to be low enough in the southern sky that almost any time the sun is shining it’s prime time to photograph.

– Be aware of shadows on the bird or birds you are photographing, which may be caused by the overhead angle of the sun or when you’re not in the best position with respect to the direction of the sunlight. In the field you often don’t notice a shadow, but shadows become more pronounced in photographs, so it’s best to be aware of shadows and adjust your position to avoid them when possible.

– Check your own shadow periodically; try to keep your shadow pointing at the bird or birds you are photographing as this shows you are in the best position for optimum lighting, and you are less apt to have shadows affecting the birds in your photos.

– Keep in mind that when birding and especially when photographing birds, the welfare of the birds should be paramount. It’s always most rewarding if you can photograph birds without displacing them, and you definitely don’t want to disturb them if they are nesting, hunting, or feeding.

– I live by the motto, “the birds’ welfare comes first,” or a shortened version: “The birds come first!” At the same time, there are always hyper-wary birds that will react to any outside activity, and birds are constantly on the move on their own, so don’t over-react if a bird flies from a perch while photographing; often they just move to the next perch or have something else or somewhere else in mind for their next stop.

– Try not to get too close to birds; allow them to behave naturally. When you stop short of making birds fly, they sometimes will actually move closer in your direction. I’ve been amazed lately at how often that happens. Give birds time to adjust to seeing you or your vehicle, and enjoy observing them in the meantime.

It is often pleasing to show a bird surrounded by its choice of habitat, and the grass surrounding this perky male Ring-necked Pheasant adds a fitting natural element to this image (400mm zoom lens, f-7 aperture, 1/2000 shutter speed, 400 ISO).

– If you try to approach a bird on foot, keep low, move slowly, and don’t walk directly toward the bird. Instead, move at an angle to the bird that gets you ever closer. If necessary, walk slowly in a long zig-zagging fashion as you walk closer, but be sure to keep the sun at your back as you approach.

– Anticipate the next move of the birds you are photographing, and be prepared to react to any fast action.

– Focus on one eye of the bird to be sure your focal point is centered on the bird. If the bird’s eye is not in focus, your photograph will suffer overall.

– If there is more than one bird in your photo frame, I have found that it’s best to focus on the closest bird rather than the middle of a group or flock. If a middle bird is in focus, and closer birds are out of focus, the photo is rarely a keeper.

– Hold your breath any time you press the shutter button to help eliminate body motion.

– Lightly squeeze your finger down on the shutter release button to reduce any jerky motion on the camera as you take photos.

– When photographing birds, stabilize your camera and lens as best you can to reduce natural body movements that can be transferred as you hold your camera. Body shake may come from natural hand movement, breathing, your beating heart, or other internal body movements.

– To brace your camera, lean your lens against a tree, post, fence, a vehicle’s window frame, or another stable option. When photographing in the open, rather than holding your elbows out to the sides, brace your elbows against your chest or sides to provide more stability as you handhold your camera and lens.

Photographing eagles is rarely easy, but when you have the chance it’s usually very rewarding. The underside plumage pattern of this immature Bald Eagle is especially interesting as its long primary wing feathers show the full effect of the downstroke of its wingbeat as it passed overhead (600mm zoom lens, f-9 aperture, 1/3200 shutter speed, 800 ISO).

– A lens with vibration control (VC) or a similar internal stabilizer can be a remarkable aid to using a higher magnification telephoto or zoom lens. But use the above 4 suggestions too, just to keep your camera and lens as stable as possible in an effort to get the sharpest photos.

– Some birders use a tripod to help stabilize their camera and lens, but for many of us using a tripod is cumbersome and awkward at best, especially when photographing flying birds. Frankly, dealing with a tripod, takes much of the fun out of bird photography for me.

– If you do use a tripod, select one with thick strong lower legs to make sure the tripod is as stable as possible. Too often I see people using tripods with thin lower legs that add as much instability to the camera as they help. Also, if you use a tripod, you should also use a shutter release cable, and that’s no fun either.

Simple Camera Tech

– Please don’t use the automatic setting on your camera. Instead, I have found that it’s best to set the Mode Dial to Av (aperture priority); then set your aperture (f-stop) and the camera will provide the corresponding shutter speed as determined by the amount of available light. In case you want to use a faster shutter speed, watch how the shutter speed changes as you change the aperture setting.

– The aperture and shutter speed work together, when you change one it will change the other, but you will get used to this interchange. I share more information about these important basic camera settings below under the “Composing Your Photos” heading.

– Preset your camera so you are ready to take a photo at a moment’s notice, which happens fairly often when photographing birds. During sunny days, I preset the ISO to 800, preset the aperture at f-8, and the resulting shutter speed will usually be between 1/1200 and 1/2000 – fast enough to stop most motion. Then, when I’m in position to photograph and have an extra moment, I double-check the settings and adjust any if needed. I also adjust settings if a change in the sunlight level or weather indicates a need for change.

The eagle eye and hooked beak create a point of interest in this image of a regal Golden Eagle on the hunt. Leaning forward on its perch with its wings ready for takeoff, you can feel a level of intensity in the moment, a feature that adds to any wildlife photograph (400mm zoom lens, f-7 aperture, 1/800 shutter speed, 400 ISO).

– Personally, I have been using an 800 ISO setting the past couple years after using a 400 ISO setting for many more. I find the 800 to be the best all-around ISO setting for bird photography under good sunlight conditions. I tend not to photograph during low light periods, but if the sun goes behind a cloud, I sometimes increase the ISO to 1600 if the shutter speed is reduced significantly by the shaded sunlight. Using an ISO of 200 or 100 may provide better quality in photographs, but these settings tend to limit your shutter speed and/or aperture options, so ISO 800 seems to be the best bet for me for bird photography with the sun at my back.

– I keep my camera’s Al-Servo setting so I can take a continuous series of photos as long as I hold the shutter down. That’s helpful if you find yourself in the midst of taking fast-action photos or a behavioral sequence. Using a continuous Al-Servo setting, it’s possible to take a single photo, but you can also take 2 at a time if you hold the shutter button down a moment longer. And when a bird is especially active, such as when it’s flying or displaying, you can hold the shutter release button down to take a continuous series of images at a rate of 3 to 10 photos or more per second, depending on the camera model you use. Then you can pick out the best of the series without missing any action in the moment.

– Using the Al-Servo setting, I tend to take 2 photos at a time, which provides a second image that shows a wing position change during flight, or provides 2 images in case a bird turns its head or makes another movement. Sometimes this technique even gives me a second image that is a bit lighter or darker than the first photo.

Composing Your Photos

– Try not to center a bird in the middle of the photo; leave a little more space in front of the bird for it to look into, walk into, swim into, or fly into. It tends to create a more pleasing composition than a bird centered in the middle of the frame.

– To better understand how to position a bird within your camera’s photo frame, I suggest taking a quick look at the “rule of thirds,” which artists often use when composing their artwork. Photographers also use this technique for photo framing and design, although it’s just a guide to be aware of when composing photos. Ultimately, do what looks best to you.

The simple grace of a swimming American Avocet in basic plumage is enhanced by the color and movement of the water surrounding it. Good photos draw the observer into the image and convey a sense of connection with the bird and the natural elements surrounding it (600mm zoom lens, f-7 aperture, 1/2000 shutter speed, 400 ISO).

– Using a zoom lens can be helpful when positioning a bird in the photo frame, because you can zoom in and out to include more or less background. But you can also reframe a photo and thereby reposition the bird in the frame by cropping it using photo editing software. By simply cropping extraneous sky, water, or plants surrounding the bird you can position the bird off-center, up or down as you wish by cropping the original photo – and you will likely enlarge the bird’s size in the photo in the process.

– Keep aware of the background as you are composing photos. Try to eliminate distracting twigs and grass from view, which may simply be a matter of moving your camera to the right or left, up or down; or taking a step left or right to get a clearer background that is less distracting. However, in some cases a leaves and other vegetation can add a natural element and more color to bird photographs.

– Getting a more uniform background can be accomplished with some success by reducing the area in focus (depth of field) to throw the background out of focus. This blurred background effect helps to emphasize your subject, and is accomplished by setting your aperture to a narrow f-4 or f-5. That aperture should keep your bird in focus while blurring the background, although this technique works best if there is extra space between the bird and background elements.

– Using a narrow f-4 or f-5 aperture also provides a faster corresponding shutter speed, which is helpful in stopping any motion and creating sharp images.

– Plants and other natural elements are often a welcome background for bird photos. When that’s the case, you may wish to increase the area in focus around the bird by dialing the aperture to f-8, f-11, or f-14 – as long as you have plenty of shutter speed to work with, say at least 1/400 for a motionless bird, and 1/1000 or faster for birds in flight.

– While watching the area behind the bird for any distracting elements or unnatural colors, watch for distracting shadows on the bird or around it as you get into position. Reposition as needed to avoid shadows on the bird and other distracting elements.

Native to Africa south of the Sahara, a male Northern Red Bishop was displaying in early September on the edge of a marsh in southern California – an introduced species in that area. The tall sedges in the background are out of focus enough to help “pop” the bird and its perch apart from the windswept plants behind it (400mm zoom lens, f-8 aperture, 1/1000 shutter speed, 400 ISO).

– When photographing birds positioned on the ground, as they swim in water, or wade along a shoreline, try photographing from your knees, in a sitting position, or even a prone position to get closer to the birds’ eye level. That is, try photographing from a ‘bird’s eye view’ at times.

Mobile Photo Blind Options

– I like to use my vehicle as a comfortable mobile blind. Birds tend to react to people, but mostly ignore a parked vehicle. I have a few local birding hotspots where I can park next to flowering trees, a wetland shore, or prominent perches where birds create fine photo opportunities.

– Your vehicle provides the option to reposition a few feet forward or backward when needed, or to drive onward to look for the next photo opportunity.

– Turn off your vehicle’s engine any time you are photographing to minimize vibrations so you can keep your camera and lens as stable as possible.

– Also, stabilize your lens by holding it on the top of a slightly raised window or against the side or top of the window frame to reduce body shake that may be transferred as you hold your camera.

While following the flight of a Short-eared Owl it was a matter of anticipating when it might begin a banking turn that would show its backside plumage with its wings and tail fully spread. Sometimes you don’t need to travel far to find an exciting photo subject; the owl was hunting on the wing just a mile south of home (600mm zoom lens, f-8 aperture, 1/2500 shutter speed, 800 ISO).

– Stay inside your vehicle and reduce any motions to make birds less wary. While birds often accept a parked vehicle, that changes if you open a door or get outside. (If you do need to step outside to photograph, don’t slam the door.)

– Using your vehicle, you can explore a more expansive area occasionally to monitor where the birds are, and where they aren’t. Take advantage of photo opportunities you encounter along the way, and at the same time, plan for future photo opportunities with respect to the time of day the sun will best illuminate a promising area.

– If you see a potential photo op as you are driving, be especially aware of any vehicles driving behind you, and always make safety your first priority when photographing from a vehicle. Sometimes you may need to drive past a bird, find a safe place to pull over, then return to the bird’s location to try to photograph it.

– Always pull safely off the side of the road in the best possible position to photograph your subject with respect to the direction of the sunlight.

Photo Editing – Composition & Design

– When using photo editing software, I alter the photo as little as possible; but simple cropping of an image can improve the photograph immensely.

– Cropping can also increase the size of the bird(s) within a photo frame by cutting out extraneous parts of the background – effectively zooming in on the bird. At the same time, be aware of the sharpness of the bird in the image; and don’t enlarge it so much by cropping that the bird becomes slightly blurred or the background looks grainy.

– Try to keep up with your photo review and editing process, which is usually best performed as soon as possible after each photo session. Keep your photo files orderly, organized, and easy to access.

– Use a uniform naming system – perhaps one that identifies a bird in a photograph by their family group; then their species, sex, or age; add the activity the bird is engaged in (flying, perched, swimming, etc), along with the month and year it was taken. An example of my naming system is: Raptors – Bald Eagle immature flying from below 3-25. If I’m out of my home state or country, I often include an abbreviation of the place name.

– To create organized photo files, I separate all photos into seasonal files (winter, spring, summer, fall), which are added to their respective annual files (2025, 2024, etc). Any photos I pick out of a file to edit, I copy into a ‘best of year’ file for easier access. This method works well for me and keeps my photos fairly organized and readily retrievable when I wish to review, publish, or sell them.

– Keep at least 2 copies of all your photos, and keep them in different locations to ensure you never “lose” any of your valuable photos due to fire, flood, or theft. It’s easiest to keep copies of all your photo files on external hard drives, separate from your computer, although it’s always convenient to have a file of favorite photographs saved on your computer for easy access.

During late fall, I had a chance to spend an extended period near a trusting male Bufflehead that was actively diving for food on along the edge of the first ice that formed on the wetland edge. After taking a series of photographs I picked this one as a standout – reviewing and editing photos can be an enjoyable part of the bird photography process too (600mm telephoto lens, f-10 aperture, 1/1600 shutter speed, 400 ISO).

– Enjoy sharing your bird photographs. Attach a photo or 2 to your emails, texts, and by all means share them via social media. Bird photos are interesting and inspiring; they may open a line of conversation, or lead someone else to learn more about birds or birding. You may even be surprised (and gratified) when people begin introducing you as a photographer.

– Photographing birds is fun, exciting, rewarding, and usually not easy, but in addition to all the other things that contribute to getting quality photos of birds, there is always a definite Luck factor – Good Luck!

I provide a few tips and techniques each week in the Bird Photography feature, usually mixed into narratives describing recent photo opportunities I encounter. But this week’s information provides an easy to refer to list of information – the best I can offer to anyone interested in photographing birds. Enjoy any time you have your camera in hand, especially when you have an interesting bird in focus – it’s the best part of the joy of photographing birds.

Article and Photographs by Paul Konrad

Share your bird photos and birding experiences at editorstbw2@gmail.com